A chunky marble bar dominates the entrance — it’s not a bad place to drop by for a glass of rosé or a local craft beer. The restaurant seems custom-designed for third dates.
Put down whatever you're doing instead, and just smoke. And you'll savor the creamy richness that is the hallmark of a moist tobacco such as this.But you are clearly here for the bone broth — poured out of stainless steel pitchers over an arrangement of noodles and herbs stained with a dark, salty oxtail reduction.The broth is murky, pale and bone-fragrant, closer to a than to anything I’ve ever tasted in a Southeast Asian restaurant, complex and yet simple as milk. RECOMMENDED DISHESCrab fried rice; citrus brined chicken wings; noodles and broth; fatty brisket.The kitchen has made a big deal of chile lobster lately, a take on Singaporean chile crab, but the fried, shell-free chunks of lobster meat don’t have the succulence of crab, and ironically, the sauce, smeared with a musky, fermented-seafood-intensive sambal, may be the most Indonesian thing here — the dish screams for a messy jolt of acidity.You can make a meal out of small plates here — I’ve done it.The oxtail dumplings — they go through a lot of oxtail here — are thick-skinned and clumpy, although I liked the demiglace-rich filling.